纺织科技进展

为解决牛仔服装布面质量问题，总结3种牛仔布质量问题的原因。C 58.3 tex皮芯复合纱的生产，芯纱选择了长丝包芯纱，解决了细纱芯纱断头多和整经以后断头多的问题，提高了布面质量。涤/羊绒60/40 51.3 tex皮芯复合纱的生产，采用并条过一并，外包纤维皮芯分离，涤纶包覆内部，与涤/羊绒70/30 51.3 tex包77.7 dtex莱卡3.5倍包芯纱对比，涤纶和羊绒含量相同的情况下，包覆纱羊绒含量提高了10%,对减少布面起毛起球现象和提升服用性能起到很好的作用。腈纶/涤60/40 49.2 tex皮芯复合纱的生产，用对造成布面刺痒感的羊毛作为芯纱包覆到纱线内，对芯纱细纱生产工艺进行优化，确保减少断裂伸长率和纱线细节，减少芯纱断头数，对皮芯复合纱的芯纱张力进行试验，确保包覆效果，羊毛被包覆到纱线内，对磨毛牛仔服装的刺痒感起到很好的改善作用。结果表明，皮芯复合纱是一种蓬松柔软、吸水性好、弹性好、条干均匀、强力高的纱线，采用此纺纱方式，可以解决布面质量问题，并实现理想的服用性能。

To address fabric surface quality issues in denim garments, the causes of three types of denim fabric quality problems was summarized. For the production of C 58.3 tex core-sheath composite yarn, filament core-spun yarn was selected as the core, resolving problems of frequent core yarn breakage during spinning and after warping, thereby improving fabric surface quality. For the production of polyester/cashmere 60/40 51.3 tex core-sheath composite yarn, a single drawing passage was adopted, facilitating sheath-core separation where polyester covered the inner part. Compared to polyester/cashmere 70/30 51.3 tex yarn covering 77.7 dtex Lycra with a 3.5x covering ratio, the cashmere content in the sheath increased by 10% while maintaining identical polyester and cashmere proportions. This significantly improved pilling resistance and wearability. For the production of acrylic/polyester 60/40 49.2 tex core-sheath composite yarn, wool causing fabric prickle sensation was covered as the core. The core yarn spinning process was optimized to ensure reduced breaking elongation and yarn thin places, minimizing core yarn breakage. Tension tests on the core yarn of the composite yarn were conducted to ensure effective coverage. Enclosing the wool within the yarn significantly alleviated the prickle sensation in sanded denim garments. It is concluded that the core-sheath composite yarn exhibits characteristics such as bulky and soft hand feel, good water absorption, excellent elasticity, evenness, and high strength. Employing this spinning method can effectively address fabric surface quality issues and achieve the desired wearability performance.