纺织科技进展

针对女式衬衫衣领止口外露的工艺质量问题，系统分析衣领结构和缝制工艺制作所需的面领吃势量，通过采用面领结构制板逐增法和面料厚度缝制吃势量的设计与测试，经过对比分析获取最佳的衣领结构制板数据，并创新提出吃势量公式，为了验证公式的可行性，采用测试以外的面料进行应用，实验结果表明，衣领公式对规格为230g/m²，100%聚酯纤维化纤面料的吃势量较符合该衣领的制作需求量。由此可知，研究结果可为提高衣领制版精度提供相应标准，并对衣领缝制工艺有一定的理论和实践价值。

Regarding the craftsmanship quality issue of exposed seam allowances on women's shirt collars， the collar structure and the seam allowance required for the sewing process were systematically analyzed. By using the incremental method of collar structure pattern making and designing and testing the seam allowance according to fabric thickness， the optimal collar structure pattern data was obtained through comparative analysis， and an innovative formula for seam allowance was proposed. To verify the feasibility of the formula， applications were carried out using fabrics other than those used in the tests. Experimental results show that the collar formula aligns well with the required seam allowance for a 230g/m²， 100% polyester fiber fabric. This demonstrates that the research results can provide corresponding standards to improve collar pattern-making accuracy and have certain theoretical and practical value for collar sewing processes.